Allow overriding pax command with PAXREAD

Most systems do not have pax installed by default, or it is not available
at all. However, since we are relying on the -s flag for member name
substitution, we can't just use a tar command that works everywhere.

Instead, support the environment variable PAXREAD to specify the command
to use in place of `pax -r`. Since bsdtar from libarchive supports -s,
we can set PAXREAD='bsdtar -xf -'.

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